Northey Arms

Bath Road, Box, SN13 8AE

(01225) 742333

l Large car park

l Attractive garden

l On-site accommodation

The Northey Arms, on the main road between Bath and Box, was once home to music hall actress and comedienne Maisey Gay. She took over the pub in the 1930s after retiring from the stage and apparently Noel Coward, whose plays she starred in, visited her there and would, on occasion, serve behind the bar.

Sadly there were no celebrities manning the pumps at the Northey when we arrived but there was a friendly barman, and tables full of families enjoying a celebration lunch or weekend breakers staying in one of the pub's five double bedrooms.

Inside it's modern pub decor with a feminine touch: pale wooden tables and rattan chairs complemented by light purple drapes and wrought iron candlesticks.

There is an extensive menu, plenty of meat options and a good selection of fish, brought in daily from Looe in Cornwall, but it was Sunday, so only a roast would do.

I wanted to save room for dessert but my bigger-bellied partner had other ideas. His pan-fried scallops were served on a thick smear of butternut squash, interspersed with cubes of chorizo and sprinkled with pea shoots. Beautifully presented on a slate square, the scallops were sweet and tender, although slightly overpowered by the larger than bite-size chunks of Spanish sausage.

There were two roast options, beef or lamb so we opted for one of each – him the beef and the lamb for me.

Vegetables can be an afterthought when it comes to a roast, overshadowed by the main attractions; not so here. The generous slabs of meat were draped over roast beetroot, sweet Chantenay carrots, crunchy mange tout and a rich cauliflower cheese. The gravy may have been a bit thin for my liking, and the lamb a little fatty, but the beef was delicious, tasty and tender. Chef did forget the Yorkshire pud but the waitress put that right.

We shared a thick wedge of passionfruit cheesecake with a tart mango and lime topping, beautifully presented with physalis and slices of strawberry.

The cheeseboard was a visual masterpiece: pecans, dried apricots, celery, apple slices, grapes, five cheeses, biscuits, a punchy picalilli and apple chutney served on a wooden platter – perfect for two to share

At £71.80 for a starter, two roasts, two desserts and four drinks, this Sunday lunch is by no means cheap, but we left feeling like it was money well spent.

ANDREA BALL