Fratello’s, Swindon

11:18am Monday 3rd September 2007

The increasing popularity of this Italian restaurant has led to a major expansion. GARETH BETHELL pays another visit and likes what he sees.

THE problem with kids, I'm told, is that they grow up so fast.

One minute they're little angels, hanging on you're every word, the next they're surly teenagers who are embarrassed to be seen with you.

It's hard to believe that Fratello's opened back in 2005 and just like a little tot you haven't seen for a while it's all grown up. Literally.

The Italian restaurant that took over the old Rockin' Emporium shop has proved so popular that the owners have had to expand just to cater for the demand.

And on visiting it's clear to see why.

A new upstairs means the restaurant is now spread over three floors with the kitchen open for all to see on the ground floor.

The fact that you can sit and watch your meal being created means you can rest assured it hasn't been dropped on the floor in the process.

The chefs making the pizzas and chucking them in a big wood fired oven also gives it an authentic feel and the experience is made a pleasant one by the friendly and attentive staff.

The lack of friendly staff in restaurants is a constant source of irritation to me.

In some places the waiters act like they have been kidnapped and forced to work 36-hour shifts.

But however good the service is it doesn't really mean much if the food doesn't match it.

Fortunately here it does.

I had the filleto rosini, £16.95, which is an 8oz Angus steak served on toasted bread, topped with pate and madeira sauce.

The last time I had this dish, somewhere else I'd like to say, it made me feel sick. But like little Oliver, I couldn't help going back for more.

The problem is it's quite rich but here it was delicious and the steak, which comes from a new supplier to the place, was particularly good.

My girlfriend went for one of the specials and had the duck breast in a cointreau and orange sauce, £14.95.

She said it was great but not wanting to take her word for it I tried it and she wasn't wrong.

One thing I would say is that the specials board was slightly tucked away and no one mentioned what was on it.

But with the duck and a number of other tasty looking dishes on there it's worth seeking out. The same goes for the rest of the place.

FRATELLO'S

Regent Circus, Swindon Tel: 01793 574444 or www.fratellos.co.uk

Opening hours Monday to Sunday 6pm - 11pm

Open lunchtimes Monday to Saturday noon - 2pm