Guto Divino, Swindon
5:30pm Saturday 9th May 2009 in
SWINDON may not be the gastronomic centre of the universe, but there is at least one cultural cuisine we can boast about - we do a mean Italian.
I reckon I’ve been to at least half a dozen of our local “ristorantes” in the past year, and I haven’t been served a dud meal yet.
Of course, it helps that I’m a sucker for anything loaded with garlic, and the stodgier the better. Stick a generous bowl of steaming spaghetti marinara in front of me and I’m a happy diner indeed. Who cares if no one wants to come within six feet of me afterwards?
Gusto Divino is the latest Italian restaurant to join the successful Swindon squad, and I’m happy to report that it doesn’t let the side down.
We visited on a Sunday afternoon, when I fully expected to find the place deserted, especially considering its solitary setting on Faringdon Road.
Instead, it was like walking into someone’s living room. Someone, that is, with a very large family who’ve all decided to call in for dinner at the same time.
The intimate restaurant was virtually full of people laughing, joking and obviously having a good time, including a large family group seated in a horseshoe formation on chairs identical to those in my own dining room at home.
It was a welcoming atmosphere and a sign that good things were to come.
My only concern - and it’s not something that would bother everyone - was the bewildering amount of choice on the menu. I counted 25 starters and the same number of pasta dishes, and that’s without the pizzas, meat dishes and vegetarian choices.
It was too much for my mind to cope with, and I found myself mentally closing my eyes and sticking in a pin to decide.
I landed on the seppioline - baby cuttlefish - to start, but that particular special had run out earlier and I was offered calamari (£5.95) instead. Fine by me . . . and pretty fine they were too, fresh and sizzling on the plate, with a creamy garlic dip on the side.
My husband went for an old favourite of proscuitto with mozzerella (£4.95), and was delighted when a bottle of extra virgin olive oil was delivered with it for drizzling.
When he conservatively chose the penne amatriciana (£6.45) for main course, I decided to redress the balance with the filetto Rossini (£14.95), a thick fillet steak sat on top of a slice of pate on toast, and covered in a marsala and cream sauce. It was rich but absolutely gorgeous, accompanied by saute potatoes and vegetables. And it was cooked just the way I wanted, medium rare.
Our son - who has sampled the pepperoni pizza in Italian restaurants far and wide - went for a predictable cheesy garlic bread (£3.45), followed by, yep, pepperoni pizza (£6.95) and polished the lot off with a very tomatoey smile. He even had room for a generous helping of profiteroles (£3.95), although we happy to round off with an espresso (£1.50).
This building on Faringdon Road has dished up everything from Chinese to Indian food over the years, with French and British in between.
Chef Mimmo Pipitone has been in charge now since the end of last year, and he comes with high credientials, having once worked at the Vatican in Rome.
If it’s good enough for the Pope, it’s good enough for the folk of Swindon, I reckon.
We do have very high standards, after all.
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