The Tipsy Toad, Bulkington near Devizes (From This Is Wiltshire)

The Tipsy Toad, Bulkington near Devizes

1:26pm Friday 23rd December 2005

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THREE huge toads lording it in the fireplace caused my other half to do a double take, but the other customers seemed to see nothing untoward about amphibians wielding musical instruments on the hearth.

After all if you are dining at a pub surprisingly called The Tipsy Toad you expect a spot of quirkiness.

But that quirkiness certainly does not extend to the rest of this excellent pub. It runs like a well oiled professional operation.

True, judging by the merriment at the bar, this is still very much a country pub, but the restaurant, which extends to a large conservatory, has the quality of service and stunning menu you would normally expect to see in a top notch establishment with trimmings to match.

The eclectic choice for Sunday lunch makes fascinating reading and even my partner, not known for being an adventurous foodie, was clearly impressed. He eschewed the turkey, roast beef and the fine fish, for duck leg confit with Toulouse sausage followed by Venison beef suet pudding with game gravy.

I toyed with the idea of crab thermidor but couldn't resist chargrilled lamb koftas with tabouleh salad as a starter then deep fried breadcrumbed lamb breast with ratatouille, fried bacon and Dijon creme fraiche.

The huge dome of suet packed with game was declared a triumph of good old fashioned food, but I was still savouring the spicy taste of the koftas perfectly matched with the Middle East salad. The accompanying vegetables with the main dish were spicy and I am intrigued to think someone in the kitchen might have been inspired by Moroccan, Greek and Middle Eastern cooking.

Sadly we could not do justice to the large, perfectly cooked dish of assorted vegetables, the ten roast potatoes (for two people!) and what looked suspiciously like an entire cauliflower. The breadcrumbed lamb was as sweet and as succulent as I had hoped for, and this was certainly one idea which worked superbly well.

There was an equally impressive sweets board but neither of us could eat another thing.

We sat and enjoyed coffee and eavesdropped on conversations on the full tables around us. Ranging from death under an airbag to sexual indiscretions of twenty somethings it proved somewhat racier than normal Sunday lunch table repertoire.

The pub cannot boast of being a candidate for the chocolate box cover, but it is very cosy with pale terracotta decor and beams, and simple pine tables. Oh and the cutlery is modern and stylish and veritably gleams.

All in all a first rate occasion from start to finish, and if it proved much pricier than normal, we both agreed it was exceptionally good value for a truly good spread with a difference.

The meal, with wine, came to £41.

The only trouble is, as my husband ruefully remarked when we got home, Sunday lunch in future is going to seem rather tame in comparison.

I didn't tell him. I'm already planning to return in the New Year.

The Tipsy Toad Bulkington, near Devizes 01380 828741 Cards accepted Disabled access Children welcome in restaurant Parking Vegetarian options Advisable to book

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