The Lamb at Buckland, Near Faringdon

11:49am Friday 3rd March 2006

I WAS one awkward customer when I went to the Lamb just after 6pm and asked if it would be possible to have a meal and leave by 6.50pm.

I knew that food service started at 6.30pm but I was on the way to see a play in Oxford that began at 7.30pm and I really fancied something to eat.

A quick word with the kitchen produced the desired result and I was told my order would be cooked as soon as I had made my choice.

There are no printed menus, as dishes come and go with the seasons. A chalk-board hangs above the fire in the bar.

Starters when I visited included confit of canard (£4.95) and parsnip and tomato soup (£4.20). There were no vegetarian options, but when I inquired what would happen if I brought a veggie friend with me I was told to mention it when booking. If I came in on spec they would cook something especially, they said.

I only had time for a main course, so I chose medallions of Scotch fillet beef with a bordelaise sauce (£20.45). Other options were whole sea bass stuffed with fresh herbs baked on a bed of sea salt in a light pernod sauce (£15.95) or breast of chicken with a truffle sauce (£14.95).

The beef was a bit steep in price for a meal served in a bar, but it was what I fancied. I didn't realise there was a restaurant I could have dined in, with white tablecloths and candles, until I got home and looked at the website. It would have been nice to have been told.

But it was a pleasant bar, with an ancient hearth and thick stones walls.

My meal came within 10 minutes, and on a hot plate. There was plenty of meat with a good flavour, in a red wine sauce. The vegetables came separately and comprised half a dozen mange tout, five miniature carrots and two small new potatoes. Bizarrely, I was also brought half a piece of bread and butter on a side plate.

I polished off the lot in good time and had a few minutes left to finish my lovely Hookey bitter and have a chat with my hostess. She was friendly and we talked about other local food haunts and trends.

The place has an inviting relaxed feel and I would have liked to linger longer.

CATHERINE TURNBULL

The Lamb at Buckland

Near Faringdon

Tel : 01367 870484

Lunch noon 3pm Dinner 7pm 10.30pm, except Sundays when bar food is available

No smoking in restaurant or in bar near diners