Silk on the Downs, Ogbourne St Andrew (From This Is Wiltshire)

Silk on the Downs, Ogbourne St Andrew

8:41am Thursday 13th April 2006 in

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After a hectic and fraught couple of months, when the children could be forgiven for forgetting what their parents looked like, we decided to celebrate the return of normality with a slap-up family meal.

Friends told us that Silk on the Downs, at Ogbourne St Andrew, was well worth a visit and, after a quick phone call to ensure the restaurant was happy to accept children, as well as Visa cards, we arrived for the 7pm start of Saturday service.

The former pub-turned wine bar and brasserie prides itself on its relaxed, contemporary dining and the dcor certainly had that up-to-the minute feel, with its stripped wood floor, uncluttered open-plan surroundings and accented colours.

Adorning the walls, and adding extra interest, were the framed silks of leading racehorse owners as worn by the jockeys, reflecting Wiltshire's rich racing heritage, as well as giving the restaurant its name.

We were welcomed by manager Chris and his team of enthusiastic young waiters and shown to our table in the rapidly-filling restaurant.

Over a basket of fresh complimentary bread, we acquainted ourselves with the varied menu and the night's packed specials board.

Most of the starters could have had my name on them with the choice including a salad of marinated crayfish, halloumi cheese with roasted vegetables and smoked breast of chicken, priced at between £6 to £6.95.

But I was delighted with my brimming dish of mussels (£6.50) that had the interesting twist of being cooked in port as well as cream, adding to the delicious sweetness of the shellfish.

My husband Julian opted for the Thai fishcake (£6), while 12-year-old daughter Rebecca went for the gravadlax (£6.95) and both pronounced themselves well satisfied.

Joel, nine, had forgone a starter to keep his powder dry for his main course, poached fillet of salmon with a lightly spiced mango salsa (£12). He was happily doing a trencher man's job on the salmon until a close encounter with a slice of spice brought him to a halt.

Rebecca opted for her favourite, a roasted onion and gruyere tart, at £11.50, that was robust in flavour and served with a tomato and basil coulis.

At £15.50, Julian's sea bass was the most expensive yet earned its stars as being moist and flavoursome. My choice was the pork Dijonaise (£12.50), which brought tender slices of meat in a sumptuous creamy sauce that disappeared quickly, mopped up by the generous servings of perfectly cooked vegetables.

At this point, Juilian and I admitted defeat, but not so the children. Rebecca chose crme brulee, which was meltingly creamy, while Joel hit the jackpot with a frozen chocolate mousse. Together they cost £10.

The overall bill, including four glasses of wine and four glasses of pop, came to £100. Yes, Julian and I will be back. But, perhaps to save money next time, we will be more economical with the children and leave them at home.

By Annie Richards

Silk on the Downs

Ogbourne St Andrew

(01672) 841229

• Open lunchtimes seven days a week, and every evening except Sundays.

• Credit and debit cards accepted
• Vegetarian options available
• Non smoking and smoking areas
• Children's options available
• Friday evening family fish and chip special