Owner and chef of The Linnet Jonathan Furby aims to provide a gastronomic treat at this pub/restaurant between Trowbridge and Devizes.

Low ceilings, oak beams, cream walls and wood panelling give it a country air, while the food has a metropolitan elegance.

We found the menu full of pleasant surprises, starting with the price. The set lunch offers two courses for £12.75 or three for £14.95.

From the four starters I went for rabbit and cider pate – as I drove there I heard on the radio that rabbit is the perfect credit crunch food, and here was my opportunity to try it.

We were presented with a basket of homemade breads – carrot and coriander, deliciously warm and crumbly, and a rather drier but no less tasty walnut and sage.

The pate was a treat, complemented to perfection by a light but tart apple chutney and salad leaves.

My wife’s neck of lamb on cashew nut couscous provided the second surprise with its two large cold chunks of meat, rather than the warm thinner slices one might have expected. It was perfectly cooked, still a little pink and packed with flavour.

For main I chose the vegetarian lasagna with a pesto cream. The presentation was beautiful, perfect layers of pasta, onion, tomato, leek and courgette, the latter nicely al dente to add contrast, browned on top and with a creamy sauce.

My wife’s fillet of chicken on lemongrass rice was succulent and flavoursome. Neither dish sat well with vegetables and the carrots, cabbage and mustard mash looked a little tired and lacked bite.

For pudding, I went for the rhubarb crème brulee and was delighted when my spoon made a satisfying crunch through the topping into cool custard. The raspberry garnish was unnecessary but was snapped up to go with a chocolate brownie and clotted cream which, surprise number three, came piping hot, with a rich sauce.

We paid our bill, which with a glass of dry white wine and half a lager came to £35.

What a treat, and welcoming enough to take children to teach them how to appreciate good food.

The Linnet

20 Great Hinton, Trowbridge, BA14 6BU

(01380) 870354

South West Pub of the Year

Owner and chef Jonathan Furby came to the pub from The Pear Tree in Whitley

A la carte evening menu

Prides itself on making everything in its own kitchen, from bread and ice-cream to essentials like stock

Our Eating Out is an independent review carried out by the Gazette without prior knowledge of the owners.