SWINDON foodies were dealt a fresh blow at the end of July when a damning report was published naming and shaming a new wave of businesses scored a zero food hygiene rating. But why are restaurateurs still failing to meet basic standards? And what is the secret to securing a coveted five star score? Marion Sauvebois investigates.

WHEN 14 restaurants and takeaways fell short of the required two-star hygiene rating in the summer, no-one felt more defeated than Louise Doughty.

Far from a merciless inspector out to terrorise the town's well-intentioned restaurateurs, Swindon's public protection team leader prides herself in educating owners, driving up standards and crucially, keeping food poisoning at bay.

Seeing eateries gamble with customers’ health and flout fundamental regulations was a huge setback.

“It was very disappointing,” she admits with a sigh.

“They are not all new businesses and they should know better, because we give them advice every time we go.

"We work very hard with them to help them improve. We have reached an unfortunate peak.”

Among those singled out for failing to follow basic hygiene guidelines were Rafu's Indian Takeaway, Yume, North Star Fish Bar and Penhill Food And Wine.

The fresh wave of zeros followed recent scandals which saw Chinese takeaway Eat Well fined £9,000 in December 2014 and the GW forced to hand over a staggering £20,000 in February for a string of hygiene breaches.

While many decried the unfair score at the time, blaming their shortcomings on unreasonable expectations and mounds of unmanageable paperwork, Louise insists bureaucracy barely enters the equation. It comes down to poor training and fundamental gaps in their knowledge of food preparation.

“It has nothing to do with paperwork, that’s down to hygiene and cleanliness,” she says firmly.

“Paperwork is 10 per cent of it - you have charts to fill in everyday on fridge temperatures, what checks are made when the food comes in, where they put it, what they did with the wrapping etc.

"If you didn’t have the correct paperwork you would not get a zero or one. It’s their responsibility if something goes wrong; someone could be ill."

Of the 1,624 food businesses rated as included in the food hygiene scheme in the borough, 62 per cent have been awarded a three rating or higher, which is 10 per cent below the national average. 36 per cent have received five stars.

Every restaurant, deli or cafe is inspected shortly after they open.

If the inspection raises red flags it will be re-inspected between 48 hours and five weeks later. Those who fare well will not be checked again for another 18 months to two years.

During each inspection, one of Louise's environmental health officers observes kitchen staff at work for up to three hours (though a large hotel with several kitchens can take all day), examines fridges, checks food temperature, evaluates the risk of cross-contamination, looks for traces of pest, structural problems and rates cleanliness.

Every stage - from the moment the food arrives to the moment it reaches the plate - is carefully scrutinised.

“There's an awful lot to think about for businesses,” concedes Louise, who worked as a chef for 15 years before becoming an environmental health officer in 2006.

As part of her thorough training she had to get to grips with microbiology, food hygiene pathology and chemistry.

“It takes hard work and diligence and conviction. But once you have a system in place maintaining it becomes routine," she says.

“What people don’t always realise is that we’re here to help. We are not the bad guys.”

What commonly catches chefs out are very simple steps which should come naturally to anyone working in a kitchen: washing their hands, using different utensils for vegetables and raw meats, keeping cooked and raw food apart to avoid cross-contamination and setting fridges at a suitable temperature to prevent the spread of bacteria.

While she admits inspections are much more thorough than two decades ago, training is more widely available and anyone can seek the council’s help for expert advice.

Some like Vincent Jones, the landlord of the Village Inn in Liddington, have jumped at the chance to receive guidance, especially as legislation toughened the inspection criteria.

Since taking over the Arkell’s pub 13 years ago he has successfully maintained a five star score.

But he admits keeping to a high standard has required determination and relentless effort.

“You have to keep on top of it all the time,” he says. "But after a while it becomes second nature. You learn through experience and training.

"And anyone who starts a food business needs to go to the council and ask for help, get as much information as they can.

"If you try to cut corners someone could get food poisoning. It's a big responsibility. Trying is not enough. Personally I think anything below a three food hygiene rating is wrong."

The legislation is much more lenient than expected when it comes to shutting down a business. Louise and her team must be convinced customers are at immediate risk.

Pest may not even be grounds for closure if it is considered steps have been taken to get any infestation under control.

Prosecution is another matter entirely and bringing anyone in breach to justice when they fail to improve can take up to 12 months. Last year seven businesses were prosecuted in the borough.

But not is all doom and gloom for the foodies in Swindon. According to Louise, the council has seen a steady 20 per cent increase in businesses scoring a three or above in the last 12 months.

With up to 10 new restaurants, delis, cafes and other businesses serving food registering with the council each week (some have simply changed hands but must re-register), an inspector’s job is never done.

One thing is certain Louise and her team will not rest until the town is zero-rating free.

“The objective is to have no zeros and ones, to get the businesses to move up the scale. All we can do is educate them. And that’s what we’ll keep doing."

It is not a legal requirement for food outlet to display they rating. To check a business's rating go to ratings.food.gov.uk/search.

Ratings.food.gov.uk lists 25 0-rated Swindon food outlets

1: A1 Cash & Carry, 71-72 Commercial Road, SN1 5NX

2: A1CC - Swindon Fish Market, 71-72 Commercial Road, SN1 5NX

3: AAA Shop, 30 County Road, 

4: Abbey Meads Indian Takeaway, Unit 5-8 Highdown Way, St Andrews Ridge, SN25 4YD

5: Abbys Food Stores, 147 Manchester Road, SN1 2AF

6: Bay Leaf, 13 Faringdon Road, SN1 5BJ

7: Breadlines, 168 Rodbourne Road, SN2 2AY

8: Kubus Polski Sklep, 126 Manchester Road, SN1 2AF

9: Lemon Plaice, Unit 2 Neighbourhood Centre, Highdown Way, St Andrews Ridge, SN25 4FD

* Recently inspected – new rating to be published soon

10: North Star Fish Bar, 200 Ferndale Road, SN2 1HB

11: Nova Cafe, 40 Havelock Street, SN1 1SD

12: Penhill Food And Wine, 5-7 Hannington Close, Penhill SN2 5NN

13: PGC Chicken & Pizza, 61 Bridge Street, SN1 1BT

14: Pinehurst Fisheries, 7 The Circle, Pinehurst, SN2 1QR

15: Rafu's Indian Takeaway, 121 Cricklade Road, SN2 1AD

16: Raja Food Store, 105 Broad Street, SN1 2DT

17: Rice House, 39 Jennings Street, Rodbourne, SN2 2BQ

18: Stanton House Hotel, The Avenue, Stanton Fitzwarren, SN6 7SE

19: Sultan Mini Market, 29 Eastcott Hill, SN1 3JD

20: Super Pizza/Super Dragon, 39 Fleet Street, SN1 1RE

21: The Glue Pot, 5 Emlyn Square, Railway Village, SN1 5BP

22: The Khyber Restaurant, 5-6 Victoria Road, Old Town, SN1 3AJ

23: Yeahya - Flavours Of Asia, The Nine Elms, Old Shaw Lane, SN5 5PD

24: YUME Noodle & Sushi Bar, 188-189 Victoria Road, Old Town, SN1 3DF

25: Zabka Polska Sklep, 14 Manchester Road, SN1 2AB